Stopping at the Towers Overlook on the Breaks Interstate Park drive is a great introduction to the geologic and human forces that have created this special place. Just a short walk from the parking lot, the overlook exposes an unusual rock formation—a craggy island encircled by the horseshoe bend of the river that carved it out. Standing there, I could hear the soft crash of the rapids almost 1,000 feet below. I saw a white flash of bird wing against a rock face, possibly a peregrine falcon, which were reintroduced into the park in 2007. The breeze tickled my skin. I felt my breath deepen and my pace slow down as I entered this world of interplayed rock and water.
The experience was one of the many highlights of my recent trip to the Eastern Kentucky park. Breaks Canyon is its centerpiece. Sometimes billed as “The Grand Canyon of the South,” its 1,000-foot depth makes it one of the deepest gorges east of the Mississippi. The north/south fissure cuts through Pine Mountain, a 125-mile ridge running along the southeast border of Kentucky and Virginia. At Breaks, the Russell Fork of the Big Sandy River has carefully and slowly carved out one of the few passes along its entire span.
The gorge is impressive and wild, but the landscape bears the mark of humans—a railroad forged through the inhospitable terrain and a formerly impassable river channel blasted open. What can’t be seen—only imagined—is the harvesting of an entire forest of massive yellow poplar trees. The landscape is forever altered, but it’s still exceptional.
A 1930 newspaper article in the park archives declared that the Breaks was destined to be a national park. World War II interrupted that plan. Grassroots protection efforts took over, with Pikeville resident and businessman Kelley Day leading the charge. The Breaks Interstate Park Commission, consisting of four members from each of the two states, formed in 1954. Kentucky’s representatives include the lieutenant governor, the commissioner of Kentucky State Parks, and two residents of Pike County.
“It’s not uncommon for national parks to cover multiple states, but it’s really rare for a state-level park,” said park superintendent Austin Bradley. “Commission members from Kentucky and Virginia vote equally on matters pertaining to both sides.”
Bradley has been at the helm of the 5,000-acre park for 16 years. Under his leadership, Breaks has evolved into an outdoor recreation destination with a range of activities in all seasons. These outdoor pursuits highlight the geologic and biologic uniqueness of Breaks and draw groups that align with the park’s mission.
But there also is a financial component to the offerings. Because it is an interstate park, taxes provide only 18 percent of the Breaks budget—about one-third the level of a typical state park. Guest fees generate the rest of the funding, partly through a day use fee of $5.
Adventure awaits visitors to Breaks Interstate Park. Colorful foliage makes upcoming autumn one of the best times to visit.
Wildlife and Whitewater
After the eastern elk was declared extinct in 1880, eastern states started working with western states to repopulate the Appalachians. Kentucky’s efforts were the most successful. It now has the largest elk herd in the eastern United States. In 2012, Virginia began elk repopulating efforts with animals from Kentucky. Breaks is in the middle of the elk restoration zones of both states.
Fall is high drama in elk herds as males bugle and compete for females during the rut. Viewing trips from the park begin in August. Guided trips benefit from local expertise and the ability to get up close, but it’s not the only option. On my visit, I managed to spy elk at one of four public viewing areas within a 15-minute drive.
Pine Mountain is one of the few relatively intact migratory corridors along the Appalachians and gets an influx of bird species in the fall, like Swainson’s warblers and scarlet tanagers. Pine Mountain also is critical black bear territory, and a healthy population thrives in the park.
The Russell Fork is a world-renowned whitewater stream, dropping nearly 280 feet through the gorge. During the first four weekends in October, planned releases from the John W. Flannagan Reservoir upstream create prime rafting conditions. The gorge is technically challenging, for experienced whitewater boaters only, and rafters or kayakers must be self-reliant.
On the Ground and in the Air
More than 20 miles of trails crisscross the park. An interpretive guide details trees and rock formations along the short Ridge/Geological Trails Loop. The Camp Branch Trail enters the site of an old lumber camp, with artifacts like a steam power hoist system and Peavey hooks. An overlook view sits at the base of the Towers formation.
The trail system is expanding, and during my visit, a companion and I hiked one of the newer trails. We drove out of the core of the park—and away from the cliffs—to the Mule Skid Cove trailhead. This is a moderate route to river level, beginning in an open understory cove with ferns and mossy rocks. As rhododendron thickets closed in, the trail dropped down to Grassy Creek, and we crossed the first of two swinging bridges. Here, the water dropped down small waterfalls, coursed down rock chutes, and streamed across bedrock. The second swinging bridge led to the creek’s confluence with Russell Fork and the end of the gorge.
For those who want a bird’s-eye view, a zipline experience soars 200 feet in the air along the rim of the gorge. Constructed with natural materials into rock outcroppings, it’s designed to blend in. Knowledgeable guides talk about the natural history of the area—its geology, hydrology, botany and biology.
A decade ago, Bradley and area rock climbers developed an exceptional partnership to establish climbing in the park. The 350-plus routes cover all levels of experience. A gathering of park management, climbers, hikers, biologists and emergency personnel met early on to develop the climbing management plan, which is required reading for all participants. Its ethic is to preserve vegetation, respect the needs of wildlife, and have good trail etiquette. A couple of times a year, the park hosts introduction to climbing events with provided gear and guides. Southeast Mountain Guides (southeastmountainguides.com/our-locations/breaks-interstate-park-ky-va) offers outfitted trips to the Breaks.
Freewheeling
Breaks is the only state park in Virginia or Kentucky connected to an ATV trail system, according to Bradley. Virginia’s Spearhead Trails run more than 200 miles. There are access points at Breaks Interstate Park and its outpost location, Southern Gap. A reclaimed strip-mine site, Southern Gap also offers camping and a visitor center. It is the park’s prime location for elk viewing. It was added only recently to the Breaks system, and while it’s a separate site, the two are connected by road and the ATV trails.
Southern Gap’s trails are also open to mountain bikes, as are select locations in the main Breaks park. The Flatwoods multiuse trail isn’t long and isn’t a primary destination, but it offers a nice complement to other activities.
For All Ages
For those who like to drop a line in the water, Breaks has river and lake fishing. Russell Fork is for more serious anglers, playing host to trout and smallmouth bass. For more casual folks, the nonmotorized Laurel Lake has largemouth bass and catfish. A license is required, and while both Kentucky and Virginia licenses are valid on the lake, the states don’t yet have a reciprocal agreement for the river. Occasional interpretive programs offer the chance to give fly-fishing a try.
Laurel Lake is in the core of the park and often is the visitation hub for families. Canoes, kayaks and paddleboats are available to rent seasonally, and the neighboring water park has slides and zero-entry pools. Performances at the bustling amphitheater include concerts, theater productions and storytelling.
The Breaks Interstate Park Visitor Center houses a small museum and a wide range of information. On-site accommodations include the motel-style lodge, cottages, cabins and camping—from primitive sites to RV hookups. The Rhododendron Restaurant serves home-style meals with floor-to-ceiling views of the gorge. Fall is the busiest season at the park. Weekends can fill up quickly, but camping often is available on weekdays.
A driving loop passes most of the main buildings and trailheads but also short walks to some of the best views of the gorge. One of our tamest outdoor adventures was watching the sunset at the west-facing Stateline Overlook. There, we watched the sun sink below the horizon with a woman who had lived in Pikeville her whole life but had never before visited Breaks. She was afraid of heights and walked with a cane, but that didn’t stop her from appreciating the view of the setting sun, the craggy Breaks and the river below.
For further information on Breaks Interstate Park, visit breakspark.com.