24 Hours in... Frankfort

May 31, 2017

2:57 PM

Frankfort was named our state capital in 1792, the same year Kentucky became the 15th state. Although it is widely known for being the hub of political activity, it also is a fun and interesting place to spend some leisure time. Frankfort has all the governmental and historical sites that you would expect from a state capital, but there also is an assortment of one-of-a-kind shops, diners and restaurants that give it a hometown feel.

The city was named after pioneer Stephen Frank. Back in the 1780s, when the area was still part of Virginia, Frank was making salt at a ford in the Kentucky River when he was killed by American Indians. The surviving settlers from Bryan’s Station thereafter called the area Frank’s Ford, which evolved into Frankfort.

A delicious start to any day in Frankfort begins at B’s Bakery. In the heart of downtown, B’s is the kind of bakery where you almost see your willpower heading back out to the sidewalk as soon as you open the door. The aromas of coffee combined with those of yeast, sugar and cinnamon capture the essence of bakeries gone by. B’s has a charming décor of whitewashed antique furniture and fixtures. And of course, there is a glass-front case full of doughnuts and confections such as light and airy glazed, gooey apple fritters and buttercream-filled long johns doused in chocolate icing. There also are mouth-watering cookies, like peanut butter, sugar and oatmeal, displayed in antique glass jars. Get some for now and you might as well pick up a few for later—you know you will want a little mid-morning pick-me-up.

If you need help planning your stay, you can find it at the charming Frankfort Visitors Center. The historical Victorian home with gingerbread trim and a wraparound porch fits right into a neighborhood of fine older homes, so look for the sign out front. It has maps and brochures, plus a friendly staff to help you plan your stay.

Being the state capital obviously gives Frankfort some tourist destinations you can’t find anywhere else in the Commonwealth, such as the magnificent domed Kentucky State Capitol, built in 1910 and open for tours. Home to the Kentucky House of Representatives, Kentucky Senate, Kentucky Supreme Court and Office of the Governor, it boasts quite a bit to see, especially if the legislature is in session.

Created in the Beaux Arts style, the massive building features interiors of marble and granite, and an awe-inspiring seven-story domed rotunda in the center. Inside the capitol are statues of famous Kentuckians and murals depicting Daniel Boone. Don’t forget to look up as you approach the building from the outside. High above the portico are pedimental relief sculptures depicting symbolic figures from Kentucky’s past and future. A Romanesque woman in the center represents the state, and she is surrounded by figures that represent Art, Labor, Plenty, History and Progress. There also are animals that symbolize Agriculture, all carved into the limestone and granite exterior.

Also while outside, do not miss the iconic floral clock around the back of the building. Measuring 34 feet across, the giant, working timepiece is made up of more than 10,000 seasonal flowers.

After your visit to the new capitol—it is only 107 years old, after all—you need to stop by the Old State Capitol, which was built in 1830. Despite its age, the Greek Revival building, which was used for 80 years, is still in amazingly good shape. It has been restored to its 1840s grandeur, complete with reproduction desks, and still has some of the original chandeliers and hand-crafted windowpanes. The building is an architectural marvel, but don’t miss the free-standing, self-supporting marble staircase that is held together by pressure and precision. After you admire it, consider that it was constructed before power tools were invented.

For more on our Commonwealth’s past, walk a couple of blocks to the Thomas D. Clark Center for Kentucky History. Wander through 12,000 years of Kentucky with the help of 3,000 artifacts, hands-on activities, animatronics and interactive exhibits. There is a massive research library with rare books, maps and manuscripts that make Kentucky’s past come alive. If you have roots in Kentucky, save time to do a little genealogy research while you are there.

There are other museums in and around downtown that you might want to consider visiting. The Capital City Museum has some fascinating displays focusing on the history of the city of Frankfort. The imposing Kentucky Military History Museum, housed in the old state arsenal, sits on a small hill, as if it is defending the city. Inside the 1850s Gothic Revival-style building you will find an impressive collection of historical firearms, weapons and artillery, some dating back to the Revolutionary War.

Adjacent to downtown is the Frankfort Cemetery, where you can pay your respects to everyone’s favorite pioneers, Daniel and Rebecca Boone. Their graves sit on a hillside with the stunning current Kentucky State Capitol in the background.

Downtown Frankfort has some wonderful options for lunch.

If you are a fan of the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, you might recall seeing host Guy Fieri in the kitchen at Rick’s White Light Diner. This tiny hole-in-the-wall café has been around for ages. Owner Rick Paul mans the stove and entertains with his wisecracks and cantankerous banter with customers. Paul, a trained chef, serves up Southern favorites like pork barbecue, oyster po’boys and crawfish pie, but he also offers juicy cheeseburgers and fried potatoes that make an awesome meal. Try to sit at the counter, so you’ll be in the middle of the diner buzz.

Another prime lunch spot is Gibby’s, a casual restaurant with a welcoming feel. Menu choices rival chain restaurants, with giant sandwiches, delicious pastas and gourmet salads. But the eatery also serves a delightful Hot Brown, a Kentucky classic resembling an open-faced turkey sandwich with bacon and creamy, cheesy Mornay sauce. If you have never had this hearty dish, Gibby’s is a good place to try it.

For your afternoon activity, spend some time getting to know the drink Kentuckians call their own. Bourbon fans and history lovers will be equally enthralled with Buffalo Trace Distillery, the oldest continuously operating distillery in the United States. In addition to its namesake bourbon, Buffalo Trace distills others you may be familiar with, such as Eagle Rare, Blanton’s Single Barrel and the elusive Pappy Van Winkle. Hourly tours take visitors to the fermenting and bottling rooms, as well as the rickhouses, where the bourbon barrels are stored while they age. Indulge in a tasting following the tour and browse around the gift shop for fun souvenirs like bungs (bourbon barrel corks), Buffalo Trace clothing and bourbon-related books.

If you would rather commune with nature than bask in the aroma of bourbon, drive over to Salato Wildlife Education Center on the west side of town. Operated by the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife Resources, this 200-plus-acre recreational and educational complex is an enjoyable way to learn about nature in the Commonwealth. There are interactive exhibits both indoors and outside. See the collection of native snakes and turtles, and then head outside to visit with bison, elk, wild turkeys, bald eagle and the lovable 615-pound black bear. Salato boasts 4 miles of hiking trails and a lake stocked with catfish, bluegill and trout.

If you want to experience the great outdoors on water, Frankfort is home to Canoe Kentucky. Offering canoe, kayak and raft excursions on the Elkhorn Creek and Kentucky River, the outfit can set up a lazy float on the stream, provide a day of fishing for smallmouth bass, or take you to ride the rapids.

No trip to Frankfort would be complete without a bourbon ball from Rebecca Ruth Candy. Founders Rebecca Gooch and Ruth Hanly were teachers who left their classrooms and opened a candy company in 1919. Credited with inventing the bourbon ball, Rebecca Ruth offers all kinds of candy, including options with liquor and without. Stop in and take a tour of the downtown factory and enjoy a free sample.

Visitors driving through downtown Frankfort get glimpses into the past with beautiful historic homes on every street. The Liberty Hall Historic Site features two homes open for tours. The oldest home, dating back to the late 1700s, was built by John Brown, one of Kentucky’s first two U.S. senators. The other, an 1835 Greek Revival structure, was home to his son, Orlando Brown. Tours detail the history of both men and their families, and feature glimpses of period furnishings and a beautiful garden area.

An excellent choice for dinner is Bourbon on Main. The owners focus on showcasing the best of Kentucky in this restaurant housed in a historical building overlooking the Kentucky River. With that in mind, it offers an extensive selection of bourbons and menu choices chock-full of locally sourced ingredients. Try the beer cheese appetizer, followed by one of the signature burgers. Make sure to save room for chocolate-chip bread pudding with bourbon caramel sauce. It is as good as it sounds.

Another dinner favorite is Serafini. There you will find white-tablecloth fine dining, right in the heart of the historic downtown. Menu choices range from Italian classics like sausage carbonara and chicken picatta to a nod to Kentucky’s Southern roots with choices like fried green tomatoes and a pimento cheeseburger. If the weather is nice, you can dine alfresco.

Downtown, with the railroad tracks running right through the middle of Broadway Street, is where you will find a selection of shops. Grab a cup o’ joe at Kentucky Coffeetree Café, and then browse around. Next door is Poor Richard’s Bookstore, an independent bookstore jam-packed with an amazing assortment of new and used books. Also adjoining is Completely Kentucky, with a huge selection of Kentucky-made arts, crafts and gourmet foods.

If you are up for a night on the town or just a quick drink before catching a show at the Grand Theatre, pop into Capital Cellars Wine and Spirits Café. Although it boasts a huge assortment of bourbons and wines by the bottle, beverages also are available by the glass. Order a flight of bourbons or wines, so you can try before you buy. It has a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, where you can make friends or just chat with the knowledgeable bartenders.

Some restaurants and bars in town offer nightly entertainment. But for a real taste of history, check the website of the Grand Theatre and see what’s playing. Built in 1911, the classic building originally was a 135-seat vaudeville house. It has been home to many ventures in its 100-plus year history, and underwent a complete restoration, reopening in 2009 as a 428-seat performing and visual arts theater. It hosts all kinds of musical, cinematic and entertaining acts.

There is plenty of lodging in Frankfort, especially near the I-64 exit ramps, where you will find all the usual chain hotels. But if you are looking for a more personal setting, The Meeting House Bed and Breakfast is a homey option. Innkeepers Gary and Rose Burke will welcome you with open arms to their home, which dates to the 1840s. The house has original moldings, 12 fireplaces and hand-carved walnut banisters along the three staircases, and the Burkes have worked to preserve the old while including modern amenities.

Frankfort is a perfect mix of a storybook hometown with beautiful old homes, mom-and-pop style businesses, and a friendly, walkable downtown. It has the added bonus of historical attractions dating back to pre-statehood days, and if you time your visit right, the lure of watching our state government in action.