“The wait for four will be at least an hour,” replies the hostess, offering an apologetic smile as disappointment casts a shadow across my face. The restaurant’s lobby is nearly empty, save one duo patiently waiting on a bench, quietly browsing their phones. I had been looking forward to experiencing an eatery called rise n°1 for some time—a must-visit for my mom whenever she traveled to see my grandmother in Dallas. The restaurant is focused solely on the art of the soufflé, that seldom-seen feat of whipped egg whites, an utterly classic French dish.
The soufflé is something of a relic these days, rarely found on restaurant menus but revered nonetheless. That rise n°1 is a restaurant dedicated to the soufflé is somewhat astounding, given the persnickety nature of the cooking technique involved in its preparation. Whether it’s sweet or savory, when it comes to the soufflé, time is the most important ingredient. So while the line to dine at rise n°1 may have been short, the rate of table turnover would be dictated by the soufflés and the soufflés alone. For a soufflé waits for no one.
A soufflé essentially is an egg-based dish, the yolks mixed into a foundation crafted of béchamel (savory) or melted chocolate or fruit purée (sweet). Egg whites are whipped vigorously before being folded into the base, springing into action once in the oven, the air bubbles trapped within the whipped whites expanding and lifting the soufflé northward. When executed properly, soufflés are ethereal, impossibly light in texture yet rich in flavor.
It is a statement dish if there ever was one and has a reputation for being particularly high maintenance. Perhaps that is why it is difficult to find a soufflé on a menu. When a chef is bold enough to make the offering, it is nearly always of the sweet variety and is accompanied by a warning label: “Please order at the start of your meal.” It is true that soufflés require a schedule, the chance of the generous pockets of air escaping their whipped egg white tower not a matter of if, but when. On average, I found there to be a five-minute window from oven to table, making this a risky move for even the most seasoned of restaurants to tackle, but an approachable and highly impressive tactic for the home cook.
Impressive was just what famed French Chef Antonin Carême was going for when serving the elite and wealthy diners of Paris in the 1820s. With the aid of new ovens that offered more consistent, even heating, Carême found his soufflés climbing to new heights, and he proceeded to build a menu featuring dozens of soufflés, each one more decadent than the next. He is credited with popularizing the dish, and the soufflé remained a staple through the 1970s but has since begun a slow decline.
The praise my family heaped on rise n°1 over the years piqued my interest and, starting with my grandmother’s recipe for a classic cheese soufflé, I began my descent into a flurry of egg whites, cheese and chocolate. While the intimidating nature of this cooking technique is well-earned, in truth, it is a relatively simple dish to achieve. I did find some preparation techniques more successful than others and, through a combination of my grandmother’s recipe, a bevy of dedicated food publications, and my tried-and-true copy of Joy of Cooking, I adapted two soufflés that are now a regular part of my dinner party menu rotation.
I found the most lofty and angelic soufflé was achieved only when the egg whites outnumbered the yolks, when the whites were freshly whipped, and the soufflé immediately transferred to the oven. Resist the urge to open the oven door until the buzzer tells you the soufflé is ready and make sure your guests are seated when the timer dings. You’ll want to command the attention of the room. The soufflé is a dish meant to be showcased.
Mushroom & Gruyère Cheese Soufflé
Any good melting cheese will do here, but I particularly love the nutty nature of gruyère. Combined with finely minced mushrooms and fresh thyme, this soufflé is a showstopper of a side dish. Makes 6 servings as a side dish.
Ingredients:
Butter
Parmesan cheese or fine breadcrumbs
1 pound assorted mushrooms, finely diced (cremini, baby portabella and/or shiitake)
10 whole cloves
1/4 white onion, root end intact
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 cloves minced garlic, plus 1 clove crushed garlic
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped, plus four whole sprigs
Pinch of nutmeg
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Black pepper
1/4 c up all-purpose flour
7 ounces finely grated gruyère cheese
4 egg yolks
5 egg whites
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the top oven rack to ensure the soufflé has plenty of room to rise. Coat a 7-8 cup soufflé dish with butter, using a pastry brush to rub the butter in an upward motion around the entire inside of the dish. Dust the interior with grated Parmesan cheese or fine breadcrumbs. Set aside.
2. Push the sharp end of each clove into the onion. Place the onion in a small pot along with the milk, 1 clove crushed garlic, 4 sprigs of thyme and the pinch of nutmeg. Allow to steep for 15 minutes over low heat. Do not boil.
3. While the milk is steeping, prep the mushrooms. Place a medium sauté pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon of butter. Sauté the mushrooms with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon black pepper until the mushrooms are browned and softened, approximately 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and chopped thyme leaves and cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Remove from heat and set aside.
4. Strain the milk into a bowl, discarding the onion, garlic and thyme stems. Place a medium-sized pot over medium-low heat and warm. Add 4 tablespoons of butter. As soon as the butter has melted, stir in the flour, creating a roux. Cook, stirring constantly, until the flour and the butter have combined and are smooth. Slowly pour in the milk, using a whisk to incorporate the roux and break up any lumps that form. Stir until the béchamel is thick and no more clumps remain. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper.
5. Remove the béchamel from the heat and stir in the cheese and mushrooms. Mix until all of the cheese is melted. Allow the mixture to cool for 10 minutes, and then stir in the egg yolks, adding them one at a time. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and set aside.
6. Beat the egg whites on medium speed until they are foamy, and then turn the speed up to high, whisking until stiff peaks form. Do not overwhisk to the point that peaks will not form or the whites are clumpy.
7. Add 1/3 of the egg whites to the mushroom and cheese mixture. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the egg whites, using broad strokes to reach the base of the bowl, ensuring the batter is fully incorporated. Add the remaining egg whites in two batches, folding carefully so as to not deflate the egg whites.
8. Pour the batter into the soufflé dish and transfer to the oven. Bake for 40-45 minutes until the top has browned and the soufflé is cooked in the center. Transfer directly from the oven to the dinner table.
Dark Chocolate Soufflé
Allow your guests to linger at the dinner table while you finish off this impressive dessert, which is delicious on its own but even better when accompanied by ice cream and fresh fruit. Makes 5 individual 8-ounce ramekin servings.
Ingredients:
Butter
Sugar
8 ounces dark chocolate, chopped
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons coffee
4 egg yolks
6 egg whites
1/4 t easpoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Remove the top oven rack to ensure the soufflé has plenty of room to rise. Using a pastry brush, coat the inside of the ramekins with butter, using upward strokes and making sure the entire interior is covered, including the lip of the ramekin. Dust the interior, including the lip, thoroughly with sugar. Set aside.
2. Create a double boiler by placing a large, heat-proof bowl over a pot of barely simmering water. The bottom of the bowl should not touch the water. Add the chocolate, 6 tablespoons butter and coffee. Warm slowly, stirring frequently, until melted and smooth. Remove and allow to cool for 10 minutes before mixing in the egg yolks, one at a time.
3. Beat the egg whites on medium speed until they become foamy. Add the cream of tartar and turn the speed up to high, slowly adding the sugar when soft peaks begin to form. Continue whisking until stiff peaks form. Do not overwhisk to the point that peaks will not form or the whites are clumpy.
4. Add 1/3 of the egg whites to the chocolate mixture. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the egg whites, using broad strokes to reach the base of the bowl, ensuring the batter is fully incorporated. Add the remaining egg whites in two batches, folding carefully so as to not deflate the egg whites.
5. Pour the batter into the ramekins, overfilling each without letting the batter fall over the side. Using a dough scraper or the back side of a knife, slice off the top of the batter, creating a flat surface that is flush with the edge of the ramekin. Dust the tops with sugar and place the ramekins on a baking sheet.
6. Transfer to the oven and immediately decrease the heat to 400 degrees. Cook for 12-15 minutes until the tops have browned and are slightly firm. Transfer directly from the oven to the dinner table.