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The sun rests hot and high above Henderson, a smattering of clouds bright against the blue sky, offering patches of shade to the rows of corn beginning to crop up around me.
Leaving the small bustle of central Henderson behind, I turn onto a country highway, following the road past undulating fields until the drive leading to Farmer & Frenchman Winery appears on my left. A border of thick corn stalks frames the drive before dropping to the side dramatically to reveal a sweeping vista overlooking neatly arranged, trellised grapevines. A rustic barn sits just behind the vines, its age apparent, yet it’s well preserved.
I curve around this idyllic farmscape and park in a gravel lot adjacent to a larger structure housing the vineyard’s restaurant and tasting room. I step into the restaurant, excited to meet proprietors Katy Groves-Mussat and Hubert Mussat, the husband-and-wife team behind this 1-year-old wine- and food-inspired venture.
The design of the restaurant and tasting room is spacious and open, and the exposed ductwork and contemporary décor create an unexpected juxtaposition to the view of the vines beyond. This contrast mirrors Katy and Hubert’s relationship, and the beautiful result of what can be created when two individuals from different corners of the world come together and realize a dream in the middle of Kentucky’s rolling farmland.
Katy and Hubert’s love story did not begin in Katy’s hometown of Henderson or Hubert’s hometown of Paris, France. “I had to go to Miami to meet my Frenchman,” says Katy, laughing at this unlikely confluence of events.
Katy spent her childhood plucking strawberries from the vines around the old tobacco barn built by her grandfather, who, along with his wife, bought the farmland in the 1940s that the Farmer & Frenchman Winery now occupies. Katy found herself drawn to agriculture and went on to study it at the University of Alabama. Her degree would lead her to focus on local foodways, specifically the influence of Cuban politics and culture on the foodways of southern Florida, regularly taking her to the vibrant city of Miami.
Hubert’s journey to Miami came via a different but related industry: food. His family is of Italian origin, and he was exposed to their recipes for pizza, pasta and the like at the age of 8, spending time behind the scenes in the kitchen of his father’s restaurant. Growing up in Paris, Hubert was naturally immersed in wine as well, since it is such a fundamental part of French culture. He was always interested in learning more, greatly developing his palate and breadth of knowledge over time.
Hubert marveled at his father’s business acumen and soaked up as much knowledge as possible, building his skillset by lending a hand throughout the restaurant and kitchen. He broke from this trade early, spending three years as a civil engineer, but it wasn’t the right fit, and he couldn’t help but heed the kitchen’s call. He made the move to Miami in 2000, joining his father, who had been running a successful restaurant in the area. Together, they opened a second establishment, and Hubert settled in Miami. The stars aligned in 2009, when he and Katy met at a party called “French Tuesday.”
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Hubert Mussat and Katy Groves-Mussat
Their romantic fate sealed, Hubert and Katy made several visits to Henderson over time—trips to see the barn her grandfather had built and the land where Katy ran free as a child were inevitable. Katy and her mother had always daydreamed about resurrecting the farm, but none of their ideas had taken root. Hubert was struck by the beauty of the rustic barn and the sloping valleys below, and the wheels of revitalization began to turn. All that was needed was Hubert’s vision to bring the farm back to life.
A fundamental aspect of Katy and Hubert’s dream was to highlight the beauty of the farm and to showcase country living. Nothing brings people together quite like food and wine, and Hubert’s background in the food and beverage industry gave them a leg up in establishing their restaurant. The vineyard side would take a bit more education, for as much as Hubert and Katy knew about wine, they weren’t winemakers. They started by attending a conference on fruits and vegetables at the University of Kentucky and began to connect with established Kentucky vintners as well as Patsy Wilson, the University’s grape expert, and Andy Rideout from the UK College of Agriculture’s Cooperative Extension Service.
Given that winemaking is a lengthy labor of love, Farmer & Frenchman Winery offers a curated selection of wines from France and Italy as well as varietals bottled under the F&F Select label, which includes wine crafted by Katy, Hubert and their winemaker, Raymond Meyer, using imported grapes that are fermented, aged and bottled at an off-site facility. The vines decorating the lush fields of Farmer & Frenchman Winery were planted in the spring of 2015 and are now studded with chambourcin and vignole grapes—varietals that have proven to thrive in the climate of the Bluegrass State. The first run of wine made with grapes from their own soil will be ready in the coming months. In the meantime, the spirit of bringing two cultures together continues with their wine list’s mix of locally and European-produced wine.
Whatever wine you sample, there is an item on the restaurant’s menu with which to pair it. Hubert’s Italian roots are reflected throughout the offerings, which include a selection of pizza and pasta, French and Kentucky cheese platters, and daily specials often crafted with ingredients sourced from the region. Hubert uses recipes that have been passed down in his family for years, and everything is made from scratch.
The restaurant has drawn many from Henderson and the surrounding area to the farm since it opened. However, when developing their business plan, Katy and Hubert knew the concept would need to be multifaceted to meet their financial demands and to fully realize their vision. The answer was the same rustic building that had so inspired them in the first place—the old tobacco barn. As much of the structure as possible was restored, enabling the barn’s original charm to shine while being highlighted by large chandeliers. When the barn’s side doors are open, the sweeping farmscape is exposed, making this renewed space a picture-perfect location for an event.
The couple continues to develop the farm in line with their vision of what Farmer & Frenchman Winery will grow to be, including plans to build three cabins on the grounds, so guests can take a short walk to their lodgings after a day spent experiencing the winery and restaurant. Katy is a yoga instructor and looks forward to one day offering customized retreats—bringing food, wine and yoga together for a rejuvenating weekend spent among the vines.
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After my tour with Katy and Hubert and a lunch of house made pizza, charcuterie and a flight of wine, I can understand the desire to laze away the day, finding peace in the fruitful surroundings. They admit the road to creating Farmer & Frenchman Winery hasn’t been without bumps, and that in only their second year of business they still have much to accomplish, but say their life on the farm couldn’t be better. “It was like I never left,” said Katy of returning to Henderson permanently. Hubert agrees and couldn’t be more grateful for the community’s open arms.
Eight years after a farmer found her Frenchman at a party in Miami, their family has increased twofold. Their children wake up every day, looking out over the fruits of their parents’ labor, a dream realized that is sure to only get better with age.
If You Go:
Farmer & Frenchman Winery
12522 Highway 41 South
Henderson, (270) 748-1856
farmerandfrenchman.com